Riverbend's bunny basics
I know there is a ton of bunny care information on the internet, these are the bunny care tips, tricks and methods, that I have learned over my years of raising and owning lionhead bunnies, as well as information I have been taught by lionhead breeders, vets and lionhead owners. I am not a veterinarian, and I highly recommend talking with your rabbit savvy veterinarian if you aren't sure about something, especially medical.
All of the products listed below are available at Riverbend pet supplies, message for availability.
Feeding your bunny (fortified pellets)
The pellets that we have been using for years is Martin's little friends rabbit food. I love that they contain dandelion and chamomile. I find that the Martin's little friends formula makes my litter boxes smell less, lionhead coats shiny and thick, and as a bonus, they're a canadian brand!
We feed a measured amount of pellets daily.
Nursing does/babies 0-4 months: unlimited amount of Martin's little friends original. (blue and red bag)
Babies 4-6 months: 1/4 cup of Martin's little friend original. (blue and red bag)
Rabbits 6 months+: 1/4 cup of Martin's little friends timothy adult. (pink and blue bag)
We feed a measured amount of pellets daily.
Nursing does/babies 0-4 months: unlimited amount of Martin's little friends original. (blue and red bag)
Babies 4-6 months: 1/4 cup of Martin's little friend original. (blue and red bag)
Rabbits 6 months+: 1/4 cup of Martin's little friends timothy adult. (pink and blue bag)
Another brand that I would recommend is Oxbow animal health. They have four different formulas.
Oxbow essentials young rabbit and adult.
Oxbow Garden select (soy free) adult and young rabbit.
Organic bounty (certified organic) formula only comes in an adult formula.
Oxbow simple harvest (whole ingredients, no preservatives) Adult and young rabbit.
Oxbow essentials young rabbit and adult.
Oxbow Garden select (soy free) adult and young rabbit.
Organic bounty (certified organic) formula only comes in an adult formula.
Oxbow simple harvest (whole ingredients, no preservatives) Adult and young rabbit.
Often in pet stores, there are many products that have a photo of a rabbit on the package, that are actually not safe for bunnies at all, and is very misleading for a new owner. Seeds, nuts, corn, yogurt drops, dried fruit, muesli mix, and other coloured bits should always be avoided as they are not safe for rabbits.
Hay
Hay should be the main part of a bunnies diet, about 70-80% is ideal. It keeps their guts moving, it wears their teeth down, and it keeps their brains stimulated. We feed our bunnies hay from our fields (organic timothy meadow hay), which is available for purchase in our store. If you are able to buy hay from a local field make sure it is fresh and pesticide free! Watch out for excessive dust, mold or dull colour. Buying hay in bulk is fine as long as you keep it dry, out of direct sunlight, and in a well ventilated area.
If you cannot purchase hay in bulk, or from a local farm, there are a two pet hays, that I would recommend!
Oxbow hay available in Alfalfa (under 6 months only), organic meadow hay, botanical hay, hay blends, oat hay, orchard grass, western timothy hay and timothy meadow hay.
Kaytee hay is also a good quality hay.
If you cannot purchase hay in bulk, or from a local farm, there are a two pet hays, that I would recommend!
Oxbow hay available in Alfalfa (under 6 months only), organic meadow hay, botanical hay, hay blends, oat hay, orchard grass, western timothy hay and timothy meadow hay.
Kaytee hay is also a good quality hay.
Treats
Treats are an excellent tool in bonding with your bunny, but please wait until your bunny is over 6 months of age to start slowly adding in treats/veggies/fruits to their diet. Always start your bunny with a small amount of something new (about a thumb nail sized amount) until you know it doesn't hurt their stomachs. Some rabbits have food sensitivities.
Safe fresh foods list
Herbs: Dill, cilantro, oregano, dill, mint, parsley
Lettuces: spinach, kale, collard greens, bok choy, romaine, green leaf lettuce, spring greens
Greens: Dandelion, broadleaf plantain, carrot tops, radish tops, swiss chard, watercress, spring mix
Non- leafy vegetables (fed sparingly): Carrot, pumpkin, squash, zucchini, bell peppers, celery
Fruits (fed sparingly): apples (no seeds or stems), banana (no peel), cherries (remove pit), berries, pear, peach, plum, kiwi, mango, papaya, pineapple (remove skin), melons (can include rind and seeds)
Herbs: Dill, cilantro, oregano, dill, mint, parsley
Lettuces: spinach, kale, collard greens, bok choy, romaine, green leaf lettuce, spring greens
Greens: Dandelion, broadleaf plantain, carrot tops, radish tops, swiss chard, watercress, spring mix
Non- leafy vegetables (fed sparingly): Carrot, pumpkin, squash, zucchini, bell peppers, celery
Fruits (fed sparingly): apples (no seeds or stems), banana (no peel), cherries (remove pit), berries, pear, peach, plum, kiwi, mango, papaya, pineapple (remove skin), melons (can include rind and seeds)
The list below outlines the most common foods that should never be fed to rabbits, but it is always best to check with your favorite rabbit-savvy veterinarian before introducing any new food to your rabbit’s diet. Similarly, if your rabbit ever ingests one of the items listed below (regardless of quantity), call your veterinarian immediately.
- Avocados
- Chocolate
- Fruit seeds/pits
- Raw onions, leeks, garlic
- Meat, eggs, dairy
- Broad beans and kidney beans
- Rhubarb
- Iceberg lettuce
- Mushrooms
- House plants
- Processed foods (bread, pasta, cookies, crackers, chips, etc.)
- Raw potatoes
Other treat options
Not all bunnies will enjoy fresh fruits and veggies! As long as you have a high quality pellet to supplement quality hay, your bunny will be healthy, even without veggies. If you bunny loves their hay, you can offer a variety of hays and hay treats.
Oxbow timothy hay stacks are a great option for bunnies with sensitive tummies
Oxbow treats
Martins little friend banana muffin treats
Martin's little friends apple dumpling treats
Selective naturals meadow loops
Bunny hop shop treats
Oxbow treats
Martins little friend banana muffin treats
Martin's little friends apple dumpling treats
Selective naturals meadow loops
Bunny hop shop treats
For more information on what we feed our bunnies click here.
Water
Water is an important part of bunnies diets, and it's important we make it convenient and easily accessible.
For the bunnies pens I always use a heavy crock. That can be as simple as a glass bread pan (check thrift shops!) or a cute ceramic dish made for bunnies. I personally don't use bottles until my bunnies are travelling, as I dont find bunnies drink enough from a bottle, plus they leak. I also highly recommend getting a filtered pet fountain and covering the cord, I do that for my house bunnies and they are obsessed. All of the below items are available at Riverbend pet supplies.
For the bunnies pens I always use a heavy crock. That can be as simple as a glass bread pan (check thrift shops!) or a cute ceramic dish made for bunnies. I personally don't use bottles until my bunnies are travelling, as I dont find bunnies drink enough from a bottle, plus they leak. I also highly recommend getting a filtered pet fountain and covering the cord, I do that for my house bunnies and they are obsessed. All of the below items are available at Riverbend pet supplies.
Pellet feeders
Here are some options for feeding your bunny their pellets. Some people use a ceramic bowl, and some just scatter feed them. It doesn't have to be expensive!
Here is a list of options for feeding pellets:
puzzle toys
forage mats
food dishes
pellet dispensing toy
stacking cups
Here is a list of options for feeding pellets:
puzzle toys
forage mats
food dishes
pellet dispensing toy
stacking cups
Hay feeders
Where do I put my bunnies hay to minimize mess? There are a variety of options when it comes to hay racks and toys! Some people prefer to just put hay in the litterbox (a deeper/larger box can make that easier), but here are some options to consider.
Deep or covered litter box. There will potentially be some wasted hay, but having their hay right in the box helps them to dig through and find their favourite pieces. You can even use a large/deep tote box.
Hay toys. There are toys that you can fill with hay, or you can even stuff toilet paper tubes with hay.
Hay rack. Most of the hay racks made for small pets are simply not big enough for the amount of hay a bunny eats daily (a pile about the size of their bodies) So take that into consideration when picking out hayracks. Below are a few options that I recommend.
Deep or covered litter box. There will potentially be some wasted hay, but having their hay right in the box helps them to dig through and find their favourite pieces. You can even use a large/deep tote box.
Hay toys. There are toys that you can fill with hay, or you can even stuff toilet paper tubes with hay.
Hay rack. Most of the hay racks made for small pets are simply not big enough for the amount of hay a bunny eats daily (a pile about the size of their bodies) So take that into consideration when picking out hayracks. Below are a few options that I recommend.
Choosing an enclosure
There are many options when it comes to housing your bunny. Even if you choose to free roam in the future, you're going to want a home base for you bunny, a safe space to house them when you aren't able to watch them, especially a baby.
Here is a list of some bunny habitat options:
A bunny safe room (bunny proofing anything your bunny can get into or chew)
An exercise pen
A large dog crate
DIY C & C grid style enclosure
Solid floor cages
Here is a list of some bunny habitat options:
A bunny safe room (bunny proofing anything your bunny can get into or chew)
An exercise pen
A large dog crate
DIY C & C grid style enclosure
Solid floor cages
Exercise pens are by far my favorite option. There are many different sizes, styles and types of pens available. The minimum height I would choose is 30" to ensure your bunny doesn't hop over and escape. Depending on what type of pen you choose, you may need to choose some flooring. You will want to choose something that is easy to clean such as vinyl, tile, or foam mats. Once your bunny is litter trained, you can add in some easy to wash rugs or blankets to offer traction to run and binky.
Another option is to use a dog crate as a solid floor bunny cage, for when you aren't home to keep an eye on your bunny. These are a much kinder option than the small wire cages you see in pet stores for bunnies. This also gives you the option to attach an exercise pen to the cage for added room.
Another option is to use a dog crate as a solid floor bunny cage, for when you aren't home to keep an eye on your bunny. These are a much kinder option than the small wire cages you see in pet stores for bunnies. This also gives you the option to attach an exercise pen to the cage for added room.
Travel Carriers
Whether it's picking up your new bunny from your breeder or a rescue, going to vet visits, or just moving your bunny around the house/outside, a pet carrier is a very useful and necessary tool. You don't want to carry a bunny on your lap or have them loose in the car. It could be dangerous and scary for your bunny. I recommend a hard plastic carrier as it can't be chewed the way some fabric carriers can be. The carrier below is one we carry in our shop, and it's $19! It doesn't take up much space and we use them often.
Litter & litter training
Rabbits can be litter trained! It's a bit different than cats, but the idea is still the same. You will still find some rogue poo balls around the house at times, even just from them jumping out of their box and kicking them out. But litter training your bunny will make their space much cleaner. Getting your bunny spayed/neutered helps SIGNIFICANTLY with complete litter training and stops the territorial messes.
Start by keeping your new bunny to a restricted space, generally a smaller area is better. I recommend having two litter boxes with an absorbent litter on the base, and their hay in/above their litter boxes. This is because rabbits usually eat/poop in the same place! So try to keep their hay in litter box spaces ONLY until they are better litter trained. Once they are regularly using their litter boxes, you can start to expand your bunnies space. Pick up any urine accidents with a tissue and place it in their litter boxes, as well as any poo balls. This helps to redirect them to the appropriate space. You can also add a litter box to any area they prefer to use, or move their boxes until you find what works for them.
A common misconception is that bunnies need bedding on the floor of their whole pen. This is messy and confusing for your bunny. If you keep the litter/bedding to a couple boxes, it will make your life much easier!
Start by keeping your new bunny to a restricted space, generally a smaller area is better. I recommend having two litter boxes with an absorbent litter on the base, and their hay in/above their litter boxes. This is because rabbits usually eat/poop in the same place! So try to keep their hay in litter box spaces ONLY until they are better litter trained. Once they are regularly using their litter boxes, you can start to expand your bunnies space. Pick up any urine accidents with a tissue and place it in their litter boxes, as well as any poo balls. This helps to redirect them to the appropriate space. You can also add a litter box to any area they prefer to use, or move their boxes until you find what works for them.
A common misconception is that bunnies need bedding on the floor of their whole pen. This is messy and confusing for your bunny. If you keep the litter/bedding to a couple boxes, it will make your life much easier!
Grooming your lionhead
Lionhead fur can look intimidating but it's not as hard as you may think. I only use three tools 95% of the time. The first is a wide tooth comb. That helps me to loosen any knots they may have and remove and debris such as hay. The second tool I might use would be a comb with tighter teeth such as a flea comb, this is also for loosening any tighter knots. and the last brush I would recommend would be a slicker brush. I will brush their skirt with this and sometimes their manes as well (very lightly) to remove any loose hair and to comb out the tips of their fur. The biggest mistake I see people make with their lionheads would be overgrooming. Removing too much hair can make their coats thinner and more prone to knotting up.
Bunnies are meticulous groomers and will keep themselves very clean and fresh. So long as their litter boxes are upkept, they will not smell. Bathing a rabbit is very dangerous and stressful, with or without shampoo. If you want to wipe off a stain you can wipe down your bunny with a damp cloth or pet safe wipe. Otherwise, they will take care of the rest.
Nail trimming
trimming nails can be a little bit intimidating at the beginning, but I promise you it's not as scary as you think. Once you find a routine/position that works for your bunny, you'll start to feel more confident about doing them.
1. First you're going to want to gather some tools. I grab my nail scissors, a small container with some water, cotton swabs, and a flashlight. You may also want a bit of flour, cornstarch or kwikstop in case you cut too far and have to stop the bleeding.
2.Next, I bring my bunny to my grooming table. I find if my bunnies are high up on a table, they are more likely to sit still for their nails. When I've tried to trim their nails in their room or pen, they just want to hop away from me and do something else. You want your grooming area to be on a non-slip surface, even a mat or blanket can work well.
3. I like to wet my bunnies nails with a bit of water and pull the fur on their toes back, so I can see what I'm doing much easier.
4. Locate their quick. The quick is the dark pink area under your bunnies nails. You want to avoid cutting too far down and snipping it as it does cause pain and will bleed. Bunnies with white nails will be much easier to see, bunnies with dark nails may need a flashlight to see. Alternatively, if you can't see it or you're nervous about cutting too far, you can always play it safe and trim your bunnies nails more often (maybe twice a month) and stick to the very tips.
5. I recommend with every nail doing two gentle test squeezes. If your bunny does react or pull away, it's safe to say their not feeling any pain, and you can go ahead and snip.
7. That's it! Bunnies have 4 fingers and a "thumb" on their front paws, and 4 toes on their back feet. Repeat the process, and give lots of treats during or after to make the experience a little more tolerable.
While your bunny is on the table for grooming, it would be a good time to do a physical exam. Check their paws, ears, eyes, teeth, vent, and scent glands (on either side of their vent). Sometimes scent glands do get a bit waxy and you can use a damp cotton swab to wipe away the brown, smelly, build up.
1. First you're going to want to gather some tools. I grab my nail scissors, a small container with some water, cotton swabs, and a flashlight. You may also want a bit of flour, cornstarch or kwikstop in case you cut too far and have to stop the bleeding.
2.Next, I bring my bunny to my grooming table. I find if my bunnies are high up on a table, they are more likely to sit still for their nails. When I've tried to trim their nails in their room or pen, they just want to hop away from me and do something else. You want your grooming area to be on a non-slip surface, even a mat or blanket can work well.
3. I like to wet my bunnies nails with a bit of water and pull the fur on their toes back, so I can see what I'm doing much easier.
4. Locate their quick. The quick is the dark pink area under your bunnies nails. You want to avoid cutting too far down and snipping it as it does cause pain and will bleed. Bunnies with white nails will be much easier to see, bunnies with dark nails may need a flashlight to see. Alternatively, if you can't see it or you're nervous about cutting too far, you can always play it safe and trim your bunnies nails more often (maybe twice a month) and stick to the very tips.
5. I recommend with every nail doing two gentle test squeezes. If your bunny does react or pull away, it's safe to say their not feeling any pain, and you can go ahead and snip.
7. That's it! Bunnies have 4 fingers and a "thumb" on their front paws, and 4 toes on their back feet. Repeat the process, and give lots of treats during or after to make the experience a little more tolerable.
While your bunny is on the table for grooming, it would be a good time to do a physical exam. Check their paws, ears, eyes, teeth, vent, and scent glands (on either side of their vent). Sometimes scent glands do get a bit waxy and you can use a damp cotton swab to wipe away the brown, smelly, build up.
Toys & enrichment
Bunnies love to chew, forage and play! Toys keep them stimulated and enrich their lives. Toys can be homemade or store bought, they don't have to be expensive! Every bunny has different interests and preferences, so offer different types of toys and rotate them to keep them busy.
Hideouts/tunnels
Since bunnies are prey animals, they often enjoy den-like areas to hide in! I recommend having at least one hideaway for your bunny to go in to nap or play in. Here are some examples of Hidey houses, but it can be as simple as a cardboard box!
Medical care
Before getting a bunny, I recommend finding a rabbit savvy veterinarian in your area (as not all vets specialize in exotics) This is important for getting them spayed or neutered, or incase they have an injury or illness. Spaying and neutering your bunny is not only important for their health, it also allows them to bond with another bunny, and helps with a number of hormonal behaviours! Most vet clinics will perform this procedure after 5-6 months of age.
Our favourite rabbit savvy veterinarian clinic is Coverdale vet in Riverview.
Our favourite rabbit savvy veterinarian clinic is Coverdale vet in Riverview.
Reasons to contact your vet
- Loose, soft or lack of stool
- Small, dry, or infrequent stools
- Blood in the urine
- Sneezing or trouble breathing
- Hunching in a corner or lack of activity (lethargy)
- Overgrown front teeth
- Observed difficulty chewing
- Bald patches in the fur
- Sores on the feet
- Abnormal eating or drinking